Відео

Well done, very helpful!

I just checked with a local propane supplier. I need two regulators, one at the 500 gal tank and one at the house, the only difference I can see is outlets, 1 has 1/4 “ and 3/4 inch the other has 3/4 inch. They are in the neighborhood of 50-80 buck each. I was quoted $583.00 to remove the old and install the new. These are zero adjustment valves, the only other thing is check for leaks and see that my furnace works. I’ll pass and do it myself

Sounds great except for the shark bite part

Does the pump keeps running at constant pressure even if there is no requirement of water

how can i increase the temp?

Thank you for the tip on a trusted brand. It's hard to choose from all the different price points from the big box store items. I think an integrated seat at the back of the unit might be a good idea because the roof in our bungalow style house really keeps you from standing at that end of the shower anyway. And there are a lot of reasons people might need to sit in the shower too.

Very informative video. What type of gas regulator if you want to convert a generator from propane to natural gas please ?

I have this system working well for 5 years, but now shower not draining unless toilet flushed. Any help appreciated.

Lame sauce. Crimp fittings are lame! Just solder the damn thing! If you're working somewhere that has an issue with an open flame, use an inductive heater. Relying on a rubber seal that rides along the outside of the scratched copper tubing is absurd!

Do you know where I can get a replacement pc board?

I like your website.

I want to make sure I bought the correct pipe how do I know if my pipe is pex B?

I work on ships in the engineroom. I generally use tape with some dope added. Generally, there are times when you have to take pipe connections apart to fix something else or just one thing gets changed out. So using just dope almost always makes the pipe harder to seperate as well as requires cleaning and additional prep. If its a permanent fixture then just dope is perfect. Otherwise using just tape may cause leaks so by using the tape and then dope on top it makes it easier to clean the male threads. Usually you can jist clean the threads by removing the tape with fingers, a knife, or a wire brush.. So generally tape and then dope to make things easier and quicker.

leant nothing new

How can I find a spout with a diverter that's good for elderly person with arthritis? I can't seem to find a model that's good for people with poor grip.

Pex is the same thing just press it and good to go and cheaper

Can you use a POU for a typical washer? I'd like to put a washer and dryer in a location I don't have hot water.

Thanks!

I am trying to create a 3/4 natural gas hose for my generator hook up. Can I use this to run above ground outdoors? Do you recommend another material hose that I can use to create a natural gas hose that will have quick connect fittings to my gas meter and generator

I have baseboard heat and I want to add an old school radiator in the same room. Can I replace a section of the the baseboard with a radiator? The guys who did our addition did a lousy job in our family room and it gets cold. Thought if added 1 or 2 it would make a difference. Thoughts? We have a new boiler that was replaced 6 months ago.

Hi My pump isn't pumping. Power light on but number 1 is a red lightning logo

Does it matter if the fitting has ribs that are small or the type that look like sloped barbs? Do the types needs different clamps or is one more prone to leasking?

Thanks, for the content. Can I use pressfit on a standard copper pipe. Essentially, I want to replace plumbing under the sink.

hi!!, I would like to mount the Spirocombi, I would mount it on a VERTICAL multilayer pipe with flow from bottom to top. The spirocombi has the flow arrow from top to bottom. Just loosen the ring and rotate the 2 connectors or it's not possible, thanks

What happens if the small tubing to the switch gets disconnected?? Would the pump run continuously till it burns out?

Can you use any type toilets

I have the Maxtitol 35-L want to go from 1 1/4 high pressure to 7WC for a portable genset. My regulator as the vent limiter. Do I need the Maxitrol 3/8" NPT Connection Vent Protector for 325-5 and 325-5L.

why there is red light S Indicator on my scala water booster

Our Rheem H.E. tankless gas fired W.H. condensate remains stubbornly alkaline.

its 220 acv,there is no positive wire and negative wire

Could you please let me know what type of pressure switch I can install on a 2" (DN50) water line so that it automatically starts and stops the pump at 3 bar and 6 bar, respectively?

I am looking to run a simple drain for my water softener. It will be under shallow gravel. Will get some foot travel. Which pipe should I use?🦇

As with the other video from this source, it is about half wrong. First, forced air shouldn't be lumped in with baseboards or radiators, as they are almost unrelated. First, cast iron radiators heat mostly by convection, heating the air around them which circulates (convectively) through the room. Depending on specifics, about 80% of the heat from a cast iron radiator is convective, the remainder is radiated infrared: the heat that you feel if you hold your open hand facing the radiator (or a fire). Fin-tube convectors, of the type he shows, do almost all of their heating by convection. There is some slight radiation, but the hot tubing is isolated from the outside by air gaps. There are also cast iron baseboards, which he does not mention, which are midway between. The biggest difference is that a cast iron radiator contains quite a mass of cast iron, which, once heated, retains its heat even when the steam or hot water is off. This results in slower diffusion of heat throughout the room and longer intervals between operation of the boiler. Thus, the temperature remain more even. Fin-tube baseboard convectors, on the other hand, have virtually no thermal inertia and will go cold almost as soon as the boiler shuts off. For this reason you should never use fin-tube and cast iron in the same installation, since the fin-tube cools instantly while the cast iron remains hot. This means the room with fin-tube will be cold while the room with cast iron remains warm. Where do you put the thermostat? If you put it in the fin-tube room, the boiler will run more often than if you put it in the cast iron room, but then the fin-tube room will be fine but the cast iron room too warm. If you put it by the cast iron, then the fin-tube room will be cold. Don't do it. Forced air is neither convective nor radiative, which is why it shouldn't even be included in this discussion. A wood stove is more similar to radiators and baseboards than forced air is.

Wow, is this a terrible video! There are so many errors that it's evident the presenter doesn't really understand how some of this works. He's in a nice shirt, and the warehouse is clean, but that's about it. In a hot water system you can make the pipe connections at any pair of taps, but the air vent has to be at the very top, since air will start accumulating from the top down, and if you don't vent it from the top then most of the radiator will be full of air, not hot water. With one-pipe steam, although there are two 1/8" taps for venting, only the top can be used for hot water and only the lower one for steam. Why, because if you put the steam vent at the top steam, which is lighter than air, will rise to the top of the radiator, travel to the far side, and shut the air vent leaving the radiator partially filled with air, not steam. Also, he is incorrect saying you need a bushing at the bottom in all cases. Untrue. one-pipe steam often has a 1-1/4" valve connection. Only the smallest radiators will have 1".One-pipe steam never, ever, uses anything smaller than 1". And the brass return elbow would never be used with one-pipe and almost never with two-pipe. Only hot water. And he never even mentions 2-pipe steam, which comprises probably a third of all steam. I am impressed that most of what he says is either partially or totally wrong. Do your research elsewhere!

Put your finger thru the hole in the teflon easier to apply and get it tight when we do boilers we use both. use to use just dope tell one time it leaked and an 1-1/2" B.I.header with 4 zones its a pain in the ass to strip it back and that one time I had to remove the whole header in plumbing u learn from your one time mistakes.

I stopped installing those years ago

For my RV’s main propane line, I have black iron pipe, with an adapter for a flare hose connection to my RV appliance. Wouldn’t I just use the yellow gas tape?

Simple and informative. Thank you for respecting my time.

This might be a useful video for when the water level is too high or pump doesn’t run: ua-cam.com/video/SL-MScl53IU/v-deo.htmlsi=DimuPh-0154_e-Qi

Yeah, 1/2 inch - uh-huh reaaaaaaaaaaal easy. Now, try 3/4 inch pipe, not so eassssssssy

Looking at the Scala2? … Stop. Take a breath. I have purchased and owned a Scala2. Let me inform you, before you make your decision. Like me you probably want to increase your water pressure. You are looking for a pump that is good for residential applications. Something that isn’t noisy. Well, that’s why I bought the Scala2. Let me tell you. It was nice, while it lasted. Purchased in January of 2024 it performed for almost three and half months. That’s months, not years, and definitely not decades. Just recently it sprung a leak and it was a gusher! My first response was that an o-ring needed replacing. I had a plumber come in. He was sorry to say the problem was much more serious and that he had seen many Scala2 with the same problem. I live just outside Toronto, in Ontario, Canada. My assumption after three months of ownership was that Grundfos Canada would give me a new pump or perhaps refund my money. Care to guess what really happened? The Grundfos service rep from Oakville told me, “If the engineers want to find an excuse to void the warranty, they will.” The sad part of this story is that this is my second, (yes second!) Grundfos pump. I used the MQ series pump for almost ten years. The scala2 was supposed to be the upgrade. Think you’ll be rewarded for customer loyalty with Grundfos? Think again! So if you’ve made it this far, it’s time to reveal my advantage. The Jeff advantage. I’m one of the lucky people who can laugh-off $2000. $2000 will not ruin my month. Heck it will barely ruin my week, but for you, yes you… the hard working guy or girl who saves pennies and requires value, and who absolutely cannot afford to lose $2000, then your big brother Jeff is here for you. I’ve taken the hit! And it wasn’t just any hit, it was a Grundfos sucker-punch. Grundfos actually took a swing at a loyal customer, but here I am, still standing! So allow me to say to all Grundfos customers, past and present, I took the sucker punch for you, and I was happy to do it. Now you know that the Scala2 is weak engineering, and that Grundfos Canada will find any excuse to keep your money after it breaks. Remember that once broken, they cannot be repaired. So… to the little guy, think of me as your big brother who’s looking out for you. I don’t use an avatar. Jeff Violi is my real name. I will do my best to reply honestly to any replies, except from Grundfos. Grundfos doesn't deserve anything more from me.

Very helpful I’m moving one of mine to another room and set it back up this answered everything I had questions about my biggest issue will be unhooking it to set it back up in another room.

You didn't explain how sewage pumps work, you explained why they're required.

Hi .. if I have a exclusive return line for cold water , which circulate pump should be used ?

Pex B is more restrictive at the fittings.

You're just shucking product.

Failed to specify whether tightening adjustment raised or lowered pressure setting. Also did not explain details on adjustments of second spring. Need a redo on this video!

Do you have a PDF of these lecture please

Is the 653 B NLC ¾" for potable water

PEX is a polyethylene material which has undergone a change in molecular structure using a chemical or a physical process whereby the polymer chains are chemically linked. Crosslinking of the polymer chains of polyethylene (HDPE) into PEX for pipes results in improved properties such as elevated temperature strength and performance, flexibility, chemical resistance, environmental stress crack resistance (ESCR), resistance to slow crack growth (SCG), toughness, and abrasion. Crosslinking makes PEX a "semi-thermoset" polymer, providing excellent long-term stability.